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Just a few years ago, chef Matthew Kenney was ascending to the height of success and celebrity, with a string of thriving New York City eateries, two well-received cookbooks and a ranking by Food & Wine as one of the "Ten Best New Chefs in America." But after Sept. 11, his empire collapsed in the economic fallout. And the French-trained chef took a surprising turn. He gave up cooking. For raw food. After a three-year culinary journey, he and his partner, Sarma Melngailis, have co-authored a diary cookbook, "Raw Food/Real World: 100 Recipes to Get the Glow" (Regan Books; 2005, $34.95), and opened a raw food restaurant, Pure Food and Wine, in New York City. Kenney, 40, and Melngailis, 32, both graduates of the French Culinary Institute, became hooked on raw food as the health benefits became evident. They had more energy, slept sounder, felt great. Kenney and Melngailis opened their restaurant in June 2004, with a raw vegan menu that runs from sushi to stylized beet ravioli, green curry coconut noodles to flatbread pizza with hummus. As for equipment, all that's needed are a dehydrator, a powerful blender and good, sharp knives. The new eating style may seem drastic, so Kenney suggests easing into it. "In the beginning," he says, "keep it simple." PINEAPPLE-CUCUMBER GAZPACHO Makes 4 to 6 servings 4 cups chopped, peeled cucumber (1 large English or a few Kirbys) 4 cups chopped pineapple (1 large or 2 small) 1 cup fresh pineapple juice 1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced 1 green onion, white and 1 inch of green, chopped 1 tablespoon lime juice 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 handful cilantro leaves, plus a few for garnish 3 tablespoons avocado or macadamia oil 1 handful finely chopped raw macadamia nuts In a blender, add 3 cups each of cucumber, pineapple, pineapple juice, jalapeño, green onion, lime juice and salt; blend smooth. Add remaining cup of cucumber and pineapple, cilantro and half of oil. Pulse a few times, leaving mixture chunky. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve garnished with cilantro.
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